WEST WIGHT POTTER 15 Manuel du propriétaire

1 Congratulations! You have purchased one of the best known trailerable cruising vessels available. We invite you to spend a few m

10 C. Installing the Furling Line and a Headsail on a CDI Roller Furler (1) The following procedure tells how to put the reefing line and a sail on

11 (b) Poke the end of the line up through the small hole in the spool. (c) Tie a knot in the end of the line so it will not go back down through th

12 (e) Measure the distance from the tack of the sail (its lower forward corner) to the tack tension shackle. Normally this distance should be 2 to

13 (d) If you have fewer than 6 turns, then grab the sail and wind more turns of line on the spool. Make sure the sail stays furled as you do this.

14 (e) Tighten the forestay and back stay alternately, keeping the mast vertical in the fore and aft direction until you can pull the backstay about

15 Figure 2-7 (j) The side shrouds should be just tight enough to make a very low pitched "musical tone" when you strike the bare wire w

16 3. Setup Before Launching E. Raising the Mast: Note: There are two basic ways to raise the mast: 1. Physically lift it directly, or 2. Use a mas

17 (f) Connect the electrical connector at the base of the mast (see Fig 3-1). (2) Arrange all the stays and shrouds as follows: (a) Bring the bott

18 WARNING: Look up! Make sure there is nothing up there that the mast will hit as you lift it. Especially, make sure there is a lot of distance bet

19 (c) Attach the forestay to its chain-plate with its pin (See Fig 3-4). It attaches to the forward hole in the chain-plate (the tack of the jip at

2 1. Safety ...

20 Figure 3-5 (b) Attach other end of the block and tackle to the clip on the bow pulpit, or to the AFT hole in the forestay’s chain-plate. See Fi

21 Figure 3-7 (d) Connect the baby stays to the fittings on the cabin top (see Fig 3-6).

22 (e) Pull on the free end of the jib halyard until the gin pole is held vertical. Then cleat the halyard off securely to its cleat on the mast to

23 F. Installing the Boom (1) Do these steps to install the boom: (a) Align the gooseneck on the front of the boom with the gate-opening in the ma

24 (b) If you have a topping lift, disconnect the aft end of it from the mast and clip it to the aft most attachment on the end of the boom (see Fig

25 (d) Connect the boom-vang (if you have one) to the mast with a shackle and pin (see Fig 3-12). Note: Some people prefer to have the adjustable en

26 G. Installing the Main Sail: (1) Do these steps to install the main sail: (a) Attach the lower forward corner of the sail (the “tack”) to the s

27 (d) Insert the top end of the boltrope (the fat rope at the front edge of the sail), or the first slug (if you have sail slugs) into the slot in

28 (e) If the battens are not in the sail, now is the time to put them in. Do these steps (see Fig 3-16): Figure 3-16  Determine which batten goe

29 H. Installing a Hanked-on Headsail (Jib, Lapper, or Genoa): (1) Do these steps to install the jib, lapper, or genoa: Note: This applies to hank

3 1. Safety A. US Coast Guard Requirements: (1) The United States Coast Guard requires you to have the following safety equipment on your boat. Th

30 (d) Tie the jib sheets to the clew of the sail (the clew is the third unattached corner of the sail). You can either use one long line or two sho

31 Ideally, the sheets will run as follows, depending on which sail you are using:  If you are flying the jib (the smallest headsail) -- Run the s

32 4. Launching Your Boat I. Final checks before Launching (1) Make these final checks before you launch your boat: (a) Make sure there are no powe

33 Launching the Boat: (2) Do these steps to actually launch the boat (a) Back the boat into the water. Back it in until most of the boat is floati

34 (f) Once the boat is clear of the trailer and secured to the dock or shore, then drive the trailer out of the water. If you don't have the

35 5. Setup After Launching A. Lowering the Dagger Board (1) Do these steps to lower the daggerboard: (a) Raise the daggerboard an inch or so by tu

36 WARNING: Make sure everything is clear of the daggerboard, especially people. The daggerboard is heavy and could crush fingers or other body par

37 B. Installing the Rudder (1) Do these steps to install the rudder: (a) Move the rudder into the correct position. (b) Make sure the main sheet li

38 6. Preparing the Boat to Go Back on the Trailer A. Raise the Daggerboard (1) Do the following steps to raise the daggerboard: (a) Unscrew the fou

39 (c) Insert each of the two daggerboard bolts through the daggerboard. It doesn’t matter which direction you put them in. Refer to Figure 6-2. (

4 B. Safe Operation: WARNINGS: Carefully follow all of the following warnings. Failure to follow these warnings can result in serious injury or dea

40 B. Remove the Rudder (1) Do the following steps to remove the rudder: (a) Press the locking tab on the upper gudgeon. Push it forward toward the

41 7. Putting the Boat on the Trailer A. Putting the Trailer in the Water (1) Do these steps to put the trailer in the water: (a) Back the trailer i

42  You can have a second person watch the boat as you pull the boat out of the water. This person can adjust the position of the boat by pulling

43 (e) Install the rear hold-down strap across the cockpit of the boat. If you have cockpit railings, then we recommend you put the strap through t

44 8. Packing the Boat Back Up A. Removing the Sails (1) If you have the CDI roller furler, and your headsail has a UV cover on it, then you can lea

45 Figure 8-1 (6) Do these steps to remove the mainsail: (a) Disconnect the clew of the sail from the back of the boom (the outhaul). (b) Disconnec

46 B. Removing the Boom (1) Do these steps to remove the boom (see Fig 8-2): Fig 8-2 (a) Disconnect the boom-vang from the mast (if you have a boom

47 Figure 8-3 (b) If they are not connected, connect the baby stays to the cabin top and mast (see Fig 8-4). (c) Connect the gin-pole to the mast (

48 (d) Connect the jib halyard to the forward end of the gin-pole (see Fig 8-4). (e) Connect the mast raising block and tackle to the bow chainplate

49 WARNING: The mast is heavy. Don’t try to lower it single-handedly unless you know you can handle the weight. (4) If you will be lowering the ma

5 C. Safe Towing (1) A normally equipped Potter 19 on a trailer will weigh about 2000 pounds when empty. Adding things like water, anchors, coolers

50 (f) Lower the mast to about chest height, and then squat down to lower it the last part of the way. If you have a second person, they are proba

51 (4) Other people leave the shrouds attached and use shock-cords or lines to pull the middle of the shroud forward. If you choose this approach, w

52 Figure 8-9 (b) Or, you can tie a line between the mast and something secure on the transom of the boat. This eliminates the need to put the sma

53 Figure 8-11

54 9. Maintenance A. Trailer Maintenance (1) The trailer has 3 things that require routine maintenance. These are the tires, the wheel bearings, an

55 B. Boat Maintenance (1) The only routine maintenance is lubrication of the pulleys and general cleaning. But, also refer to the Electrical secti

56 Figure 9-2  To remove water from the area under the V-berth seat, open the access hatch to get under the V-berth and look for water at the cen

57 10. Using Hatches, Ports, Lights, Etc. A. Forward Hatch (1) The forward hatch is held closed by two lines that attach to small cleats. This hat

58 D. V-Berth Filler board (1) The V-berth filler board is located as shown in Fig 10-2. Figure 10-2 (View looking Aft from above V-Berth) E. Under

59 Figure 10-3 G. Interior Light (1) The interior light has a switch on it to turn it on and off. H. Navigation Lights (1) Anchor (mast) Light: (a)

6 Figure 1-2 Figure 1-3 (b) Make sure the safety chains are attached to the tow vehicle. (c) Make sure all the trailer lights -- turn signals, br

60 11. The Electrical System A. Options (1) The electrical system on the Potter 19 has a number of options. It may have one or two batteries. The

61 (e) When you fill the battery with water, fill it only to the BOTTOM of the hole or slot. If you fill it to the top of the slot, the acid will o

62 (c) WARNING: Always unplug the charger before connecting or disconnecting it from the battery. Also keep all open flames and sparks away from t

63 (2) There are glass-tube type fuses on the forward wall of the cabinet under the stove. Refer to Figure 14-2. If you have a light or other elec

64 D. Wiring Diagram (1) Figure 11-3 shows a typical wiring diagram for a Potter 19. Fig 11-3

65 12. Using Accessories A. Built-in Fresh Water Tank, Filling and Cleaning (1) To fill the water tank, remove the deck cap and fill the tank with

66 (j) Pump the water pump until baking soda water comes out the spigot. (k) Let the baking soda water soak for 15 about minutes. (l) Drain the ba

67 (g) When you are finished pumping the tank for the last time, put the hose end in the water (i.e., lake, etc.) and open the valve. Let the pump

68 13. Links (1) The following are some websites that relate to Potters and Sailing. Sorry about any links that are out-of-date, but, of course, i

69 14. Glossary Baby-Stay – Short wires that go from the deck to the side of the mast. They keep the mast from swinging sideways as it is raised.

7 2. One-Time Rigging A. Connecting the Shrouds (1) Some people disconnect the shrouds from their chainplates every time they tow their boat. Othe

70 case of the Potter 19, it is used specifically to describe the largest factory headsail. See also: Jib and Lapper. Gin-pole – A pole used to hel

71 guide or other fitting. It is not a particular type of knot, but a figure eight knot is a good choice (refer to a knot tying book). Tack (n) – T

8 (3) To attach the shroud to the chainplate, install a pin and cotter ring at the bottom of the turnbuckle. It is a good safety practice to tape c

9 B. Installing the Main Sheet (1) Here’s how to route the main sheet (See Fig 2-3): Figure 2-3 (a) If the two pulleys are not installed on the a